Day 11: Haast-Makarora
Today I'm going up the Haast pass. This route runs up the Haast river, before taking a topographically expedient moment to head up a side-valley and over a saddle and then off to Wanaka. The route has been used since time immemorial, including an 1835 war party; the road construction started during the Great Depression.
Apparently 400 unemployed men were shipped out to build it, starting on the Wanaka side. By the late 1930's they'd got as far as the "Gates of Haast", which is not just a great name but a bridge over a spectacular ravine. It's on the Haast side (the far side) of the saddle, which is quite the accomplishment, but there's some tough terrain remaining.
There's quite a lot of solid rock along the way. But it’s not reliably solid, it’s cracked into very large pieces. I saw a three-meter high chonk of rock nonchalantly leaning against a neighbour, in a way that suggests it's ready to fall over and just waiting for the right moment. That'll not just block the road but probably tear a hole through it. In fact it may be easier to just rebuild the road around it.
There were also a few cliff faces, showing a huge angular piece of rock back there, with the implication that there used to be a lot of other rock around it which came unstuck one day. And maybe that remaining shard will too...
On the uphill side of the road, several rock faces had netting to control any rogue rocks. On the downhill side, the cliff had eroded back to the asphalt and in a few places there was a death drop on the far side of the white line. Traffic cones were regular, and a few places had new seal, and I saw a repair crew at work once. This is a high maintenance road.
But it is spectacular. The section from the saddle to Haast runs beside the Haast River, which is a huge valley with long views of river and mountain. The mountains neighbouring the river are all impressively tall, completely tree-covered with no sign of civilization. It's a clear sunny day and I can see the whole way up the valley. Sadly these are so common now that they're becoming ordinary.
Since I started in Haast, I had a long gradual climb as the road went upriver. I stopped in a the Boiling Billy waterfall, tied the bike to a picnic table since there wasn't anything better, and walked the trail to the waterfall. It ended up a fair distance away; I took a photo and decided to get back on the road.
Stopped at the Fantail falls too. This had a full carpark but I tied up to a tree in a corner. The walk to the falls was shorter, and since it was popular there were people right beside the waterfall, more people watching from a safe distance, crossing the river, or (like me) taking a disappointed photo from the trail and heading back.
There was a third waterfall but I didn't have the enthusiasm to stop.
From left to right: the bike, with some of the mountains we’re crossing. Roaring Billy waterfall. Fantail falls, with too many people. Two creatively named rivers. The views from today.
The final climb to the Haast pass saddle is serious. The elevation profile for the day is some mild ups and downs, then the big climb: 4km of nearly exclusive 10% gradient. Change down into the lowest gear, stay left, no problem. I also stopped at every safe spot I could, partly for photos and partly to catch my breath. Getting started again needs a full lane: push off with one foot clipped in, left foot doesn't need to be clipped in but things get exciting if it slips off. Push down and turn uphill and head back to the left side, it's probably clipped in by now. Wheels on the white line, consistent pace for the long haul, check the road just ahead for problems, and further ahead for the next place to rest.
It's a workout. In about 5km the road goes up about 350m. The road shoulder was variable but never generous - as you'd expect on a hard-won road like this. A cast-iron storm drain grate showed up a few times, it’s definitely not designed for bicycles: it could take a wheel if lined up right. Regular waterfalls, both beside the road and far below. And every mountainside that wasn't road was covered in dense trees.
From left to right: ongoing maintenance. Rockfall netting. Nonchalant rocks, check out the face behind them. Me on a bridge, somewhere.
I stopped for the night in Makarora, which is a cafe/hostel/campsite, across the road from a place that does helicopter tours. I think there's a 5-star hotel around here somewhere, hidden up a side-road so it doesn't get found. And a Primary School! Presumably servicing the district. I don't know if that makes it a village or a hamlet. I only found it because I was hunting for accommodation between Haast and Wanaka, to break up a stretch that would otherwise be 10 hours on the bike.
So tomorrow's ride is shorter, mostly downhill, and best of all: doesn't have a monster climb in the middle of it.
